Mountaineering Accident, Life 'Through the Wire", ect...

Some of you may have heard through rumors and whatnot that I was involved in a pretty serious mountaineering accident this past weekend. While this is true, I am basically OK and will tell the story here for those who are wondering what happened.

This past Saturday [July 12th], I headed up to the Kokanee Glacier Park near Nelson, B.C in Canada, about an hour’s drive north of where I was living this summer in Washington, to spend the weekend backpacking and mountaineering. I had made reservations to stay at the Woodbury Hut, a great little alpine cabin at the foot of the Woodbury Glacier in the heart of the park. I hiked in to the cabin about 8 km. Saturday morning, with gorgeous weather and the whole valley to myself it seemed. Upon reaching the cabin, I traded my heavy pack with overnight gear for a light daypack and headed up the ridge towards the summit of Moonlight Peak, a spectacular Matterhorn-shaped peak that, while not technical [as in needing partner/belay] involves some great 3rd and 4th class scrambling. 

I enjoyed a great mix of exposed climbing/scrambling and interesting route-finding on the way up, and summated at about 3:30 PM that afternoon. The conditions were absolutely perfect, not a cloud in the sky, no wind, and nice warm temp's in the 70's. After taking in the spectacular views and having lunch, I headed back down the same ridge to camp. About 100 feet below the summit and above a prominent notch/gully in the peak, I went to grab what appeared to be part of the solid bedrock of the mountain to step over and around the notch. This handhold turned out to be an approx. 250-300 lbs. loose block, which came down on top of me and pushed me back into the gully. I fell headfirst about 40 vertical feet into the gully, while somehow miraculously "riding" the rock that had pushed me over the edge [Yes, I know, please refrain from any geologist jokes ha-ha..]. The block became wedged about hl way down the gully and stopped my fall, and I landed on my back/head which thankfully were protected by my helmet and backpack. If nor for these two simple things I might not be alive. 

I took stock of the situation one I stopped moving and realized that despite an intense adrenaline rush and lots of blood, I was largely. Below me the gully I had fallen into opened up into a near-vertical cliff dropping nearly 1500 feet into the valley below. It would have been unlikely I would have been propelled over the edge of it, but the possibility is still extremely un-nerving. A steep ribbon of hard-packed snow and ice lead out of the gully and back to the safe ground I had fallen from, and, still feeling the surge of adrenaline, I used my ice axe to climb out and up to the summit again. I was able to bandage myself up pretty well with the first aid kit I had, but still realized I needed to get out of there ASAP. I had a broken jaw, a lot of scrapes/cuts on my arms and legs, and a possibly sprained ankle. I then used my "SPOT" Emergency Beacon, which is basically a GSP-enabled Sat. Phone, to send a distress signal. I made it to a relatively flat, safe spot below me on the ridge, from which I rested and gave myself as much first-aid as I could while waiting for help. After about an hour and a half it became apparent no Helicopter was coming, at least not to where I was, and I realized with fading daylight, I needed to take action. 

I was able to hobble down the ridge to where a large snow-filled couloir I had used to ascend the peak lead back down to the Woodbury Cabin. Using\g my legs as braces against my hurt ankle, I slid down on the snow, slowing myself down with the heels and ice axe. Back at the cabin, I sent another help signal, and this time, for about an hour, I could hear helicopter blades a few km. north of me, apparently searching the next ridge over. I made a large fire in the cabin fireplace, hoping to both warm myself up to ward off shock, as well as send a signal to the heli. As the night progressed though, I realized help was not coming back, and I needed to make a plan-of-action to get myself out of there. 

I melted some snow from the glacier and was able to use this to make some tea and soft rice to get some nutrition into me. I stabilized my jaw, which, amazingly, didn't really hurt that bad, though I obviously couldn't chew anything harder than jello, and was having difficulty opening my mouth at all, even to sip some tea. I set up my sleeping bag near the stove, and kept the fire going all night, getting as much sleep as I could in between. Starting around 11 PM, I heard large footsteps around the cabin, and persistent scratching on the outside door. While it was probably just a rodent of maybe a marmot, this was in prime Grizzly country, and I was grateful for both the solid construction of the cabin and my bear spray close at hand. Maybe whatever it was smelled all the blood on me, who knows, whatever the case I don't really want to know. The next morning, I woke up early and sent out another distress signal on my beacon. After waiting another hour to no avail, I decided that the beacon must have limited satellite connectivity or something in Canada, as I hadn't used it outside of the U.S before, and I was going to be on my own quite possibly. 

I packed up my stuff and tested my right ankle out, which miraculously felt much better from the day before!! So maybe I was going to be able to get myself out after all! I started down the trail back to my truck, a winding 8 km. single-track through alpine meadows and forests, which gains almost 2200 ft. of elevation to the cabin. At least it was DOWN hill that direction, thank god. I must have been quite a sight, my head wrapped in a bloody tee shirt, covered in sweat and grime, grimacing while lugging a 45-lb. pack down a mountain. It was slow, sometimes painful going, but I reminded myself that each step I took was bringing me back to safety and security. About 3 hours into the hike, a rescue heli buzzed directly over me, on route to the Woodbury Cabin, which I had just left. "Shit!!" I thought, worried they would search the cabin and think I was still missing, after I had left for the trailhead.

Quickly I sent an 'OK" signal on my beacon, which they must have received, because a few minutes later they buzzed low over me again, this time the pilot flashed a 'Thumbs up" signal at me. So help had co me after all, I just needed to be a little more patient! A short while later, I met up with Search & Rescue members on foot coming up the trail to me. They assisted me back to the trailhead and then took me to the hospital in Nelson, B.C. As soon as I saw them, I was overcome my shame and embarrassment of having compromised my on safety and other's in doing something so stupid. The more I talked to them though, the more they re-assured me that while yes, solo-mountaineering was a bit of an excessive risk, I had done everything else right, from carrying a beacon, to wearing a helmet and having a rope, ice axe, first-aid kit, ect.... 

When I arrived at the Hospital in Nelson, they took a bunch of X-rays of me and gave me some IV fluids and food, plus took a check-up of my spine and neck. Basically their consensus was a broken jaw with a few nicks and bruises thrown in; an incredibly lucky prognosis considering what happened. I was released from the hospital in Nelson and returned home to Metaline Falls, WA later that night. After looking at my X-rays and my jaw, the oral surgeon I saw on Monday gave me two options: either have surgery and have a bone plate and screws inserted into my chin, or have my jaw wired shut for 6-weeks. Considering these options and the fact that I had only planned on being in WA for 2 more weeks of my internship, I decided it would be best to fly home and see my usual oral surgeon for treatment and recovery. I left Washington yesterday morning and I am waiting in Denver International Airport as I sit writing this, preparing to fly home. I really really really hope I don't have to have my jaw wired shut, but I am prepared for this being a possible reality. Really it’s a small price to pay for the incredibly lucky situation I ended up in.

Out of this ordeal, I have learned several things: One- No more mountaineering by myself. While solo mountaineering and climbing can be safe, challenging, and rewarding pursuits and are respected in the alpine community, I realize I do not have the experience or desire to put myself in such a risky situation again. My friends, family, and myself deserve better than this. Two- Satellite Phone can be a lifesaver. Carry one when in remote backcountry and know how to use them, but do NOT think of them as a 'safety card' for reckless behavior. While I don't think my behavior leading to the accident was "reckless' per say, I did in retrospect take some unnecessary risks I regret. Three- People have asked me, "will you stay away from the mountains for a while now after this?" I think to those who know me well, this is a no-brainer. The mountains are my home. As a famous old German dude whose name escapes me once said, "Ziff You Take me Avay From Zee Mountains, I Vill Die." And as soon as I am able to do so, I will be back in the mountains. This time though, I will think a little more and trust my instincts before jumping to decisions. The mountain spirits were truly watching out for me that day and I thank Allah-Buddha-Jesus-Jah-Whatever that I am alive and well. Well enough of this sappy self-pitying..... LETS GET OUT AND CLIMB SOME MORE MOUNTAINS!!! Haha.... 
Phil.


*****Update: I am back Home in NJ as of today; yesterday 7-17-07], the oral surgeon I went to see wired my jaw shut, which it will be for at least a few weeks; hopefully not more. Yup, it sucks, but hey that’s life, and really that’s a small price to pay for what happened to me!!

'Though The Wire' [Kanye West]

"I drink a boost for breakfast, and ensure for dizzert
Somebody ordered pancakes I just sip the sizzurp
That right there could drive a sane man bizzerk
Not to worry y'll Mr. H 2 the Izzo's back to wizzerk

How do you console my mom or give her light support
When you telling her your sons' on life support
And just imagine how my girl feel
On the plane scared as hell that her guy look like Emitt Till
She was with me before the deal she been trying to be mine

She a delta so she been throwing them Dynasty signs
No use me tryin' to be lyin'
I been trying to signed
Trying to be a millionaire
How I use two lifelines
In the same hospital where Biggie Smalls died
The doctor said I had blood clots
But I ain't Jamaican man
Story on MTV and I ain't trying to make the band
I swear this right here is history in the making making man

What if somebody from the Chi was ill got a deal on the hottest rap label around
But he wasn't talking bout coke and birds it was more like spoken word
Except he really putting it down
And he explained the story about how blacks came from glory
And what we need to do in the game
Good dude, Bad night, Right place, Wrong time
In the blink of an eye his whole life changed
If you could feel how my face felt you would know how Mase felt
Thank God I ain't to cool for the safe belt
I swear to God drive two on the sue
I got lawyer for the case to keep whats in my safe; safe
My dawgs couldn't tell if I
I look Tom Cruise on Vanilla Sky, it was televised
All they heard was that I was in an accident like GEICO
They thought I was burnt up like Pepsi did Michael
I must gotta angel
Cause look how death missed his ass
Unbreakable, would you thought they called me Mr. Glass
Look back on my life like the ghost of Christmas past
Toys R Us where I used to spend that Christmas cash
And I still wont grow up, I'm a grown ass kid
Swear I should be locked up for stupid shit that I did
But I'm a champion, so I turned tragedy to triumph
Make music that's fire, spit my soul through the wire"